Traditional cuisine in a contemporary menu

Being an island-nation, Singapore has never really been self-reliant when it comes to produce. 
This perhaps, will change with the introduction of a “seed to table” concept, which is flourishing at the Hyundai Motor Group Innovation Center Singapore (HMGICS). Innovation is the name of the game and it goes beyond the “Black Mirror”-like robotics and EV cars, though they are a marvel to watch. 
This is Hyundai’s first global open innovation hub and testbed (it doesn’t even exist in Korea!), which is aimed at researching new EV business models, forging innovative R&D, building partnerships, producing mobility products and developing the group’s intelligent manufacturing platform. The centre utilises the latest industry 4.0 smart technologies, such as artificial intelligence, Internet of Things and robotics, and also has transformative and immersive brand experience through F&B, a VR factory tour, test rides on a “Skytrack” and a sustainable Smart Farm.
Housed in HMGICS, Na Oh is helmed by Korean-American chef Corey Lee of the three Michelin-starred Benu in San Francisco, US. A collaboration between chef  Lee and Hyundai, the casual Korean restaurant first opened its doors in June. 
Na Oh is seamlessly integrated into HMGICS, with one of the stand-out features being the two-story vertical smart farm, which utilises advanced technology, automation and robotics — just like Hyundai’s manufacturing processes. The smart farm can produce up to nine different crops, many of which are featured on the menu, emphasising a seed-to-table approach.
“Na Oh offers cultural context for Hyundai as a Korean company. The restaurant design incorporates various Korean elements, with a layout inspired by a traditional Korean house. The ‘jangdokdae’ and smart farm are centrally positioned, resembling the courtyard of a Hanok, while the inner rooms are arranged along the perimeter. This design not only honours Korean architectural heritage but also creates a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, enriching the dining experience within this innovative environment,” explains chef Lee.
The name “Na Oh” translates to “moving from inside out”, which reflects the vision of sharing the beauty of Korean heritage alongside its cuisine. “For us, the dining experience extends beyond food to encompass the materials, wares and design that shape the atmosphere. So, it is something that’s very important to me. Everything on the table, including the table itself, was made by an artisan in Korea. We proudly incorporate traditional Korean materials like Hanji, Oksa, Ottchil and iron, not only for their aesthetic appeal but also for their practical benefits.
“For instance, Hanji softens light, Oksa provides subtle privacy between tables, Ottchil prevents condensation on humid days, and the iron gamasot keeps food hot. By presenting these materials with modern sensibilities, we aim to keep these traditions alive and relevant. The restaurant features work from skilled artisans across Korea, with each piece — from the breathing jars [Onggi] and traditional cast iron pots to contemporary furniture and harmonious tableware — crafted to enhance the dining experience,” says chef Lee. 
A noteworthy collaboration with ceramic artisan H’soban aims to elevate everyday dining into an elegant celebration of table culture. This design not only highlights Korea’s culinary roots but also enriches the overall dining experience.
In addition, the use of cutting-edge technology at Na Oh goes beyond the simple application of modern techniques, as the larger goal is to honour and celebrate traditional Korean cuisine. “As exemplified by the ‘gamasot’ cooking method in a smart oven for the classic Samgyetang dish, we preserve tradition while achieving the precision and consistency that modern methods afford. This approach allows diners to enjoy the essence and soul of a traditional dish, while ensuring its quality by open-minded about how we can apply innovation to classic preparations,” adds the chef.
Celebrating a new season in Korea, Na Oh’s current menu highlights the flavours of autumn through a traditional Korean dining experience. The four-course prix fixe menu includes a selection of starters with an option to choose from the following jinjitsang (main course) dishes: Hwe-dupbap, Charcoal Grilled Pork Bulgogi or Seolleongtang, with vegetarians catered for throughout the menu.
To start with, diners enjoy a selection of traditional dishes, including House-made tofu with aged soy sauce. Though it may seem a simple dish, the  purity of handmade tofu, elevated by a naturally-aged soy sauce embodies the traditional Korean practice of jang fermentation. Jang are sauces made from fermented soy blocks or meju, which are made using pressed boiled soybeans and rice straw.
“Our autumn menu not only celebrates the harvest but also showcases the evolution of Korean cuisine through modern interpretations. It offers a unique way to experience the essence of Korea’s autumn season in Singapore,” says chef Lee.
Buckwheat and mugunji jeon (a type of aged kimchi) is served with a salad of “Today’s Harvested Lettuces”, which are harvested each morning from HMGICS’ Smart Farm. A dipping sauce is served on the side for the jeon.
“At Na Oh, our menu is rooted in traditional hansik, thoughtfully calibrated for the modern diner. Our culinary team embraces the latest advances in cooking and technology to deliver exceptional versions of classic dishes. What makes our seasonal inspiration unique is Singapore’s climate, which doesn’t follow the typical seasonal cycles found in other countries. Instead of focusing solely on specific ingredients, we draw on the associations that come with different seasons,” says the chef.
Tangpyeong-chae is jellyfish and mungbean jelly salad with vegetables and a hot mustard sauce. The dish is rooted in 18th-century court cuisine, symbolising Korea’s desire for harmony and unity at that time. It features mungbean jelly, salted and dried jellyfish, two varieties of Korean seaweed — tot and gamtae — and Swiss chard grown at HMGICS’ Smart Farm, all complemented by a hot mustard sauce. For vegetarians, the jellyfish is replaced with braised calabash.
The first main course choice offers Hwe-dupbap or assorted raw seafood and vegetables over rice, which has Albacore tuna, jackfish, fluke and salted pollack roe accompanied by an assortment of vegetables, including ice plant freshly harvested from HMGICS’ Smart Farm. A carefully crafted fermented pepper sauce, made with Na Oh’s aged gochujang, vinegar and house-made soy sauce, brings perfect balance to the flavours. Dolgim or rock seaweed is offered to create wraps, while the brine-style kimchi or mulkimchi is paired with dried pollack and egg soup.
The second choice in this menu is the Charcoal-grilled pork bulgogi with Golden Queen’s rice featuring two pork cuts: belly and cheek, served with gangdoenjang, a fermented soybean and tofu stew. There is also a clam soup complemented by spicy garlic scapes. The final choice is the Seolleongtang or long-simmered beef soup with fresh noodles. The soup has white cloud mushrooms and exemplifies the art of slow cooking. The beef brisket and tendon are served on the side, allowing guests to add them to the soup with chives and mushrooms as desired. The sea squirt condiment, with its spicy and bitter flavours, adds a refreshing zing.
The vegetarian Jinjitsang features pine mushroom jook with charcoal-grilled burdock, seaweed gyeran mari (rolled omelette with seaweed) and cabbage water kimchi. 
“For our autumn dessert, the Gotgam walnut tartlet is served with goguma sikhye, capturing the comforting flavours Koreans often associate with cooler weather. In contrast, our pine mushroom porridge with charcoal-grilled burdock showcases ingredients that are available only in the autumn,” says the chef. “Both these dishes celebrate traditional Korean ingredients while presenting them in a modern way. In the dessert, we feature persimmons and sweet potatoes, two ingredients that evoke the essence of autumn in Korea. This combination not only highlights the seasonal flavours but also pays homage to traditional Korean ingredients in a contemporary format.
“At Na Oh, I would like diners to see that when everyday Korean dishes are prepared with the utmost care using quality ingredients. They can satisfy people across many levels and can evoke emotions usually associated with more esoteric, fine dining. While we embrace a casual and comfort atmosphere, we serve the same quality products and technical preparations usually reserved for fine dining. My goal is to create a dining experience that is both accessible and exceptional. So I stay away from using the ‘fine dining’ term,” emphasis chef Lee. 
Reflecting chef Lee’s evolving vision, Na Oh’s menus captures the essence of Korea’s rich harvest and celebrates the art of storytelling through food. The restaurant brings the spirit of Korea’s harvests to diners by unveiling a new menu every three months.
“Koreans are well aware of how delicious their food is, but in recent years, there’s been a growing demand for a more refined approach to Korean dining. This has led to the rise of Korean course menus, recreations of old royal court dishes, and concepts like Hanwoo omakase. While these trends are exciting and cater to the evolving expectations for fine Korean cuisine, they don’t necessarily reflect how we typically eat. So I wanted Na Oh’s menu to be about taking a serious chef’s artisanal approach to the kind of Korean cuisine that we all recognise, crave and find sentimental, so we celebrate those dishes. I believe even our everyday food possesses qualities that are artisanal and gourmet that it can be appropriate even in a fine setting and served as proudly as any other type of cuisine,” adds the chef.